HERBS, BEES and YUMMI TEAS: Herbal Medicine on a Budget

Friday, March 29, 2013

Herbal Medicine on a Budget

Wonderful Herbs!

I do a lot of reading of others blogs on herbal medicine, lotions, bars and teas to make you well. The ingredients in them are all made from expensive essential oils. Most of us can not afford an essential oil that costs $100 per dram or ounce. Then the recipe says you need 3 different essential oils and each one of them is a very expensive EO. I can not afford to use them on every item I make. It would be too costly. Reserve the expensive ones for yourself, if you plan to buy them. I have another idea for those on a budget to create facial treatments that are just as effective as using essential oils. Mind, I am not saying don't use them. Use the ones you can afford. Use the ones that are an essential oil for many things. Lavender is one of those. Tea Tree is too. So is peppermint essential oil. I really love The Essential Herbal as Tina and Maryanne(Tina's sister) give us great recipes with simple ingredients.

I use infused fractionated coconut oil for my facial products. Herbs that are used for the skin are dried, crushed and then infused in a mason quart jar with the fractionated coconut oil for 6 weeks. Calendula flower petals (the darkest only, as they have more medicine in them), elder flower petals, yarrow flower petals, aloe vera, comfrey, German Chamomile, Echinacea, green tea, licorice root, Oregon grape root, pomegranate, St. John's wort and tea tree oil. Lavender is great too. This is my list of herbs for the skin. They all do various things for your skin and body.

To make your creations affordable, choose the herbs or plants you have, are the easiest to use or are available to you. This year I infused yarrow, calendula and elder flowers in fractionated coconut oil. The solids are removed from the coconut oil and that makes it go into the skin better. I use green tea as the water stage in making my lotions or creams. I sometimes use rose water or orange blossom water for the water stage too. You can also make your mixture stronger medicinally by infusing the herb you are using in the water for the water stage. Infuse calendula in boiling water for an hour and use that as the water phase in your lotion recipe. Try yarrow or chamomile or echinacea root: whatever your choice is. You can experiment with a combination of these things too. I truly believe that you can get just as good or better results with infusions.

To make a lotion with a water phase other than distilled water, decide what you want your cream or lotion to do for you.

1. Is this a cream or lotion?
2. What part of my skin am I applying this lotion to and what do I want it to do?
3. What type and age of skin is this being applied to?
4. What ingredients do I have for this type of lotion?
5. What do I want the water phase to be in this recipe? Plain distilled water? Green Tea? Herbal infusion?
6. What oil(s) do I want to use in this recipe? Each one does different things to your skin.
7. What preservative am I using?
8. What essential oils do I want to use in this recipe?
9. What am I packaging this creation in?
10. Do I have labels ready? Dated?

A great lotion for your hands!

Answer to number one: A lotion has more waters in it than oils. A cream has more oils or butters in it and less waters. As you see, I put waters down for the water phase. You can use various waters to create this stage. I think the best combination is mixing yarrow flowers, elder flowers and green tea in equal amounts. The total amount should equal the amount you need for the water phase of the recipe. Heat the measured distilled water in your measuring cup (Pyrex) in the microwave. Start with cold water. You want it to boil. Pour on top of the herbs you are using for the water phase. (Mason or Ball quart jar works) Let sit for an hour and then strain. This will be the water stage. (Hot is good when mixing the oil and water phase.)

Answer to number 2: Ask yourself where you want to use this creation at or on? The face requires certain ingredients (cream) and the body is great with a good lotion. If this is for the face, you definitely want to use the herbs for your water phase. If it is a lotion, green tea is great for the water phase. Rose water or orange flower water is great too. You can buy those at your local grocery stores. I get mine at The Market of Choice in Eugene, OR.

Answer to number 3: Is this creation for mature skin or baby skin or a twenty year old person? It does make a difference in what ingredients you use to make all of those different types of lotions. Each one has such different skin compared to the other. A baby needs the least harsh ingredients. The most gentlest ones too. The mature woman wants something that will help hydrate and help with the wrinkles and aging skin. The 20 year-old only wants to hydrate and make their skin feel fresh and new on a daily basis.

Herbal Ingredients from
MOUNTAIN ROSE HERBS

Answer to number 4: Do I have the needed ingredients for this recipe? See what you have on hand. You can always use other ingredients for your recipe. A lot of ingredients are interchangeable when making a lotion. Say, coconut milk instead of water phase? How soft and bubbly it would be and smooth on your skin.

Answer to number 5: IN the water phase of every recipe, we need some form of a water liquid. It doesn't have to be just plain distilled water. I find this part of a lotion recipe so versatile. You can use, green tea, an infused herb in your distilled water. Yarrow, Elder Flower and Calendula are great choices for infusing your water. Just heat a quart of water to boiling and add your crushed herbs (1/2 the jar) to a quart jar. Pour the boiling water on it and let sit for an hour. Stir occasionally. Strain the water from the herbs and you have an herbal infusion. (I am just re-iterating the importance of infusing the oils and water with the same herbs or different herbs).

Answer to number 6: Oils are wonderful. You can use some of them straight on your skin. Jojoba is the closet to our skin oil. It is more like a wax or sebum, than an oil. It is great for the skin, but very expensive. My next choice is coconut oil, fractionated. The solids have been removed from the coconut oil. It makes for easier absorption into the skin. Kukui for less of an oily feeling. Illippe butter is great for tightening the skin. Shea Butter and Almond Oil are great to use with a face product as it is one you can use without anything else added. Rose Hip Seed Oil and Apricot Seed Oils are other great choices for the mature skin. Mountain Rose Herbs has a great selection of these wonderful oils. These oils are also used as carrier oils for essential oils.

Answer to number 7: Preservatives for herbal products can help a product last 3 months or 6 months or even a year. Depending on what you use. Germaben II is a broad spectrum, liquid preservative system. Its active components have been solubilized in propylene glycol, making them easy to incorporate into formulations. It is ready-to-use in emulsions with an oil phase of about 25% or less and water soluble formulations. Germaben II is heat sensitive and should be added to the water phase or to the emulsified portion of the formulation at a temperature of 140° (60° C ) or below, during the cool down stage, generally prior to the addition of a fragrance. Adding it above 140° F (60° C) could result in compromising the preservative system in your product.

A natural preservative for those
natural products.

A new product out for natural preservatives is Octiphen Plus. Optiphen™ Plus can be easily added to the formulation during pre- or post-emulsification at or below 80°C. Optiphen™ Plus works best when used in formulations with a pH below 6.0 and is compatible with most ingredients used in the personal care industry.Vitamin E is used as an antioxidant and a moisturizer too. It is a short term preservative in my opinion. It is very soluble, provides creaminess to a blend and it provides protection also. The two (2) types of vitamin e are natural (d-tocopherol) and synthetic (dl-tocopherol). Only the natural vitamin e has an anti-oxidant value. It is best to buy it in capsules from a natural supplier like Mountain Rose Herbs. They are here in Eugene,OR.

Answer to number 8: Essential oils are the best when it comes to healing. It expresses the best of every plant they come from, no matter what country it is. To keep things on the cheaper side of life, I use mostly lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and peppermint essential oils. For any face cream I make, I have carrot seed, geranium, clary sage and frankincense essential oil. Chamomile is a great one too, but can be expensive. Tea Tree and Lavender are microbial and anti fungal and it helps to keep away the germs creating spoilage.

The Professional Packaging.

Answer to number 9: Packaging can be as simple as a small Ball or Mason jar you have. It can be a small container of any kind as long as your have cleaned it well and sterilized it. Keeping all things clean is important and contamination is easy.

Answer to number 10. Labels can be as easy as a piece of paper and tape or store bought labels. You can go as far as getting an Avery Label (in most office stores) and print some on your computer if you are selling products for that professional look..

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The Elder is Herb of the Year 2013

COMMON ELDERBERRY, from plants.usda.gov

Sambucus nigra L. ssp. canadensis (L.) R. Bolli

Plant Symbol = SANIC4

Contributed by: USDA NRCS National Plant Data Center & the Biota of North America Program

Alternate Names

Arizona elderberry, American elder, sweet elder, wild elder, flor sauco, tree of music, Dane wort, Wale wort, New Mexican elderberry, velvet-leaf elder, hairy blue elderberry, and dwarf elder. Taxonomically, there have been recent changes in this elderberry species. It was previously divided into Sambucus coriacea, Sambucus orbiculata, Sambucus velutina, and Sambucus caerulea (Munz 1968). This species is known in some floras as Sambucus mexicana.

Uses

Ethnobotanic: Only the blue or purple berries of elderberry are edible. Edible berries and flower are used for medicine, dyes for basketry, arrow shafts, flute, whistles, clapper sticks, and folk medicine. The active alkaloids in elderberry plants are hydrocyanic acid and sambucine. Both alkaloids will cause nausea so care should be observed with this plant. Elderberries are high in Vitamin C. The red berries of other species are toxic and should not be gathered.

The wood is hard and has been used for combs, spindles, and pegs, and the hollow stems have been fashioned into flutes and blowguns.

Elderberries are quite edible. The blue or purple berries are gathered and made into elderberry wine, jam, syrup, and pies. The entire flower cluster can be dipped in batter and fried while petals can be eaten raw or made into a fragrant and tasty tea. The flowers add an aromatic flavor and lightness to pancakes or fritters.

The elderberry is of well-known value to the Indians of North America and the many purposes it serves (Barrow 1967). Elderberry is highly prized by both Spaniards and Cahuillas. Throughout the months of July and August the small clusters of berries are gathered in large quantities. These clusters are dried carefully on the drying floor and preserved in considerable amounts. When wanted, they are cooked into a rich sauce that needs no sweetening. A Cahuilla family during this season of the year will subsist largely on these messes of "sauco." Frequently, the elderberry was so greatly enjoyed that families would live for weeks on little else. Many were dried for use in the winter, and were either re-cooked or eaten raw. Elderberries are still highly prized for food by modern Indian people.

Elderberry twigs and fruit are employed in creating dyes for basketry. These stems are dyed a very deep black by soaking them for a week or so in a wash made from the berry stems of the elderberry (Barrows 1967). The Cahuilla split basketry materials from the aromatic sumac (Rhus trilobata).

Elderberry branches were used to make the shaft of arrows. Flutes and whistles were constructed by boring holes into stems hollowed out with hot sticks. Clapper sticks were made by splitting the stem and clapping the two halves against each other. Clapper sticks were used ceremonially in the round-house to accompany singing and dancing. The pith of the stems was used as tinder, and the stem itself was employed as a twirling stick for starting the fire. Hollowed-out elderberry stems can be made into squirt guns.

In the middle ages elderberry was considered a Holy Tree, capable of restoring good health, keeping good health, and as an aid to longevity.

Fruits of elderberry are gathered from the wild for wine, jellies, candy, pies, and sauces. The plants are commercially cultivated for fruit production in

Botany Dept., NMNH, Smithsonian Institution

@ PLANTS

Oregon. Sambucus canadensis and S. nigra have long been used in the same way, and cultivars of both have been developed. All parts of the elderberry plant are considered to be a valuable healing plant in many folk medicine traditions (Hutchens 1991, Walker et al. 1993; Barrett et al. 1933; Clarke 1977). Elderberry flowers contain flavonoids and rutin, which are known to improve immune function, particularly in combination with vitamin “C.” The flowers also contain tannins, which account for its traditional use to reduce bleeding, diarrhea, and congestion.

The flowers are the mildest part of the plant and prepared as a tea, are used to break dry fevers and stimulate perspiration, aid headache, indigestion, twitching eyes, dropsy, rheumatism, appendix inflammation, bladder or kidney infections, colds, influenza, consumption (bleeding in lungs), and is helpful to newborn babies (Hutchens 1991). Used as a wash, the flowers or leaves are good for wounds, sprains, and bruises, as well as for sores on domestic animals. The leaves, which are stronger, have a slightly laxative property. Applied externally, leaves, flowers, bark and twigs are excellent as a poultice, mixed equally with chamomile, for soreness, inflammations, joint stiffness, and to reduce the swelling of bee stings. The flowers and berries, employed as a diuretic, can aid arthritis and rheumatism. Steeped in water, the flowers are used externally to aid in complexion beauty, tone and soften the skin, and lighten freckles or spots. The berry juice made into salve aids burns and scalds. The juice taken internally will act as a purgative.

Livestock: Elderberry is a useful range plant for domestic livestock, but is not equally palatable during all seasons. It is usually receives limited browsing in the spring and to a much greater extent in the late summer and fall. The leaves are eagerly devoured after the first heavy frost in the fall. Because many branches are beyond the reach of the animals, utilization is less destructive. Browse rating: Good for goats; good to fair for sheep; good to poor for deer; fair for cattle; and fair to poor for horses (Sampson and Jesperson 1981).

Wildlife: Structurally complex riparian vegetation communities provide many different habitats and support a diverse array of animal species. Different groups of animals occupy or use the different layers of vegetation, and this multi-story arrangement is often present nowhere else in the arid landscapes. Canopies of plants growing on stream banks provide shade, cooling stream water, while roots stabilize and create overhanging banks, providing habitat for fish and other aquatic organisms.

Game birds, squirrels and other rodents, and several kinds of browsers also feed on the fruit or foliage of elderberry. Bears love to eat the elderberry fruits while deer, elk, and moose browse on the stems and foliage. The elderberries are important sources of summer food for many kinds of songbirds. For example, the western bluebird, indigo bunting, common house finch, red-shafted flicker, ash-throated flycatcher, black-headed grosbeak, scrub jay, Stellar jay, ruby-crowned kinglet, mockingbird, red-breasted nuthatch, Bullock’s oriole, hooded oriole, song sparrow, white-crowned sparrow, western tanager, California thrasher, russet-backed thrush, brown towhee, Audubon warbler, cedar waxwing, Lewis and Nuttall's woodpecker, wren-tit, grouse, pheasant, and pigeons all eat elderberries (Martin et al. 1951).

The valley elderberry longhorn beetle (VELB) (Desmocerus californicus dimorphus) was listed as threatened under The Endangered Species Act on August 8, 1980. The elderberry beetle is endemic to moist valley oak riparian woodlands along the margins of rivers and streams in the lower Sacramento and upper San Joaquin Valley of California where elderberry grows. The primary threat to the VELB is loss of habitat, insecticide and herbicide use, and lack of elderberry shrubs/trees as a food plant for the beetle. The mitigation for VELB habitat loss, considered a taking under The Endangered Species Act, is quite stringent (U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Mitigation Guidelines).

In general, longhorn beetles are characterized by somewhat elongate and cylindrical bodies with long antennae, often in excess of 2/3 of the body length. Male VELB have a metallic-green pattern of 4 oblong maculations, surrounded by a bright red-orange border. The body length is about 13-21 mm, and antennae are about a long as the body. Females are more robust, with body length about 18-25 mm, and the dark pattern is not reduced.

Elderberry is planted because of its forage and cover value, productivity, adaptability, and ease of establishment. It is a useful ground cover for stabilizing stream banks and eroding sites. It provides food, cover, perching, and nesting sites for many species of birds and food and cover for various other wildlife, and it is important as browse for mule deer and elk. In the spring the leaves may be strongly scented and less palatable, but they sweeten and become more palatable by fall.

Status

Please consult the PLANTS Web site and your State Department of Natural Resources for this plant’s current status, such as, wetland indicator values.

Description

General: Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae). Native shrubs growing 2-4(-8) m tall, less commonly small single-stemmed trees, young twigs soft and pithy but the wood hard; bark thin, grayish to dark brown, irregularly furrowed and ridged. The pinnately compound leaves are deciduous, opposite, about 15-35 cm long, odd-pinnate with (3-)5-9 serrate leaflets 2-15 cm long, often with a long stalk, often asymmetrical at the base. Elderberry leaves, especially on seedlings or shrub-sized plants (without fruits or flowers) resemble California walnut (Juglans hindsii) and Oregon ash (Fraxinus latifolia). The inflorescence is flat-topped, 4-20(-30) cm across, broader than high; flowers bisexual, the corollas small, white to cream, rotate, 5-lobed, with a pleasant, yet slightly rancid odor. Fruit is berry-like, 5-6 mm wide, with 3-5 nutlets, blue- to purple-black at maturity with a white-waxy bloom and appearing powder blue. The common name “elder” is from the Anglo-Saxon “ellen,” meaning fire-kindler, the dry, pithy stems; blue from the fruit color.

Distribution: Common elderberry is common along stream banks, river banks, and open places in riparian areas lower than < 3000 m. From west Texas north to Montana, western Alberta, and southern British Columbia, and all other western states, south into northwest Mexico. For current distribution, please consult the Plant Profile page for this species on the PLANTS Web site.

Habitat

Elderberry grows on moist, well-drained sunny sites, usually occurring in early seral communities or in openings in moist forest habitats (slopes, canyons, cliff bases, streamsides, streambanks) and moist areas within drier, more open habitats (sagebrush, mountain brush, pinyon-juniper, ponderosa pine, often along fence rows and roads); at elevations of 3-3000 meters.

Adaption

Elderberry is a dominant understory species in riparian woodlands. It can persist past seral stages as scattered individuals in open forests, woodlands, chaparral, or riparian zones. This species flowers from May to September and fruits from July to October. Common elderberry is more common on warmer sites than red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa), although they overlap in habitat preference.

In California, common riparian woodland associates are valley oak (Quercus lobata), interior live oak (Quercus wislizenii), California walnut (Juglans hindsii), and California sycamore (Platanus racemosa). Box elder (Acer negundo), Oregon ash (Fraxinus latifolia), alder (Alnus rhombifolia), and willow (Salix gooddingii, Salix exigua, Salix lasiandra, and Salix laevigata) are particularly prevalent in the subcanopy. Understory species are mostly shrubs, including elderberry (Sambucus mexicana), buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), blackberry (Rubus spp.), and California rose (Rosa californica). Lianas, such as poison oak (Toxicodendron diversiloba) and California grape (Vitis californica) are a dominant feature. Herbaceous vegetation is 1% cover except in openings where tall forbs may occur.

Establishment

Elderberry produces a good seed crop almost every year. The seeds are dispersed by birds and other animals that eat the fruit. The seeds have a hard seed coat and embryo dormancy and may remain viable for up to 16 years in storage. Without pretreatment, seed germination may be delayed from 2 to 5 years after planting. Plants may flower and fruit after only 2-3 years and can reach full size in 3-4 years. They are said to be “short-lived.” Vegetative reproduction is limited to coppicing if the stems are killed or injured.

Management

In six riparian restoration projects carried out in California, competition from exotic weed species was a key factor in mortality and site failure (Baird 1989). On small sites, hand weeding around trees and shrubs is the most effective means of weed control. One way to avoid competition from weeds on larger sites is to remove the surface soil, although this has the disadvantage of removing nutrients, mycorrhizal fungi, bacteria, and insect and invertebrate populations critical to a healthy habitat. A cover crop of native wildflowers was also used to control weeds, with wildflower seeds hand-broadcast over the site. On wetter, heavier soils this does not seem to provide effective weed control.

There is considerable evidence that fertilization can favor exotic weeds over native plants. Inoculation with mycorrhizal fungi enables seedlings of some species to better utilize limited supplies of both water and nutrients. Inoculation of transplanted shrubs may be accomplished through inclusion of large (1.2 m

deep by 2.8 m wide) root balls with plants. Smaller, more economical soil plugs scattered throughout the site serve the same purpose. The number of soil plugs needed to ensure the establishment of soil flora is directly related to the distance of the restoration site from a similar, mature community.

Given that elderberry provides habitat for the federally listed valley longhorn elderberry beetle, livestock grazing of elderberry is not recommended. Livestock grazing can alter vegetative structure and composition of riparian habitat. Overgrazing by livestock and big game frequently changes plant species composition and growth form, density of stands, vigor, seed production of plants, and insect production.

Seed and Plant Production

Seeds:

• Elderberry grows best from seed.

• Elderberry fruits are collected when ripe and spread in thin layers to dry.

• To separate seeds from fruits either 1)run fruit through a macerator with water and the pulp and empty seeds float; 2) crush, dry and use without separating fruits and seeds; and 3) for small amounts of fruit they can be cleaned in a fruit blender.

• Elderberry seed can be stored dry at 41 °F for several years.

• Elderberry seeds can be sown in the fall soon after collection, or stratified and sown in the spring. In either case, germination is often not complete until the second spring.

• A seedling density of 35 plants per square foot is sought. Seeds are sown 1/4 inch deep in drills and covered with about 3/8 inch of sawdust mulch.

• In the greenhouse, seeds are warm stratified for two months in a mixture of peat, vermiculite, and sand at 21° to 30°C; (70 to 85°F). Seeds are then placed close to the soil surface in flats in the greenhouse. There are usually several hundred seeds in one seed flat.

• Seedlings are then potted from the flats in deep 3" pots.

• After one season of growth, the seedlings are field planted in the fall or spring when they are 6 to 8 months old. If planted in the fall irrigation may not be necessary in moist sites. In drier sites or with spring planting, irrigation will be required for seedling establishment.

Cuttings:

• Cuttings of elderberry tend to have lower survival success than establishment from seed.

• Use hardwood cuttings from previous seasons growth.

• Take "heel cuttings" from older wood, so inner pith is not exposed.

• Cuttings should be at least 10", and have at least two nodes. Cuttings are placed in 4" pots with perlite and peat. Plants are kept moist.

• Cuttings have a fragile root system, with high mortality occurring when transplanted. Care should be taken to be very gentle with delicate roots when transplanting.

• The cuttings, which do survive, seem to establish and grow faster. Plant biomass production, height, flowering and seed set is more rapid than with seedlings.

Transplanting Trees and Stems: All elderberry plants with evidence of valley elderberry longhorn beetle use (i.e. emergence holes or presence of adults) should be transplanted, as they provide habitat for a threatened species under The Endangered Species Act. For further technical information, call a representative of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Cut tree back to 3 to 6 feet from the ground or to 50 percent of its height (whichever is greater) by removing branches and stems above this height. The trunk and all stems greater than 1.5 inches in diameter can be replanted. If the presence of tunnels excavated by the beetle larvae inside the elderberry stem and trunk are detected, place pruned material next to transplanted elderberries. Move plant by the root ball. Keep the root ball wet. Place transplant in holes 3 to 4 feet deep. Construct circular water retention basin from the excavated earth about 8-10 feet in diameter and 12 to 14 inches high. Plant the main trunk of an elderberry in the center of each water basin. Plant other stems that have been rooted around the circumference of the basin. Saturate soil with water. Irrigate as necessary, especially through first growing season.

Clear-cutting or seed tree cutting with high soil disturbance sometimes favors the development of elderberry in a seral community. It recovers well from heavy grazing in the Great Basin. For use in site stabilization or rehabilitation, seeds may be planted directly or seedlings and 1-2-year old stock may be transplanted. It also grows from transplanted seedlings, cuttings, and rootstocks.

Thanks to the plant site @ http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/cs_sanic4.pdf

GLORY BEE FOODS IN EUGENE

GloryBee Foods offers Aunt Patty’s Organic Coconut Sugar and Organic Honey Crystals

2.10.2011 Eugene, OR—GloryBee Foods announced today that Aunt Patty’s Organic Coconut Sugar and Organic Honey Crystals are now available in retail jars.

Organic Coconut Sugar is made from sap collected from the freshly cut flower buds of organic coconut palm trees grown on small, sustainable farms. The collection of the sap is known as “tapping” and has been practiced for centuries throughout the Pacific Islands. Once a coconut tree has been tapped, its sap can flow continuously for decades, resulting in a sustainable harvest.

After harvesting, the sap is then slowly boiled and evaporated by hand in small batches. The cooled syrup is then broken up into free-flowing, naturally sweet granules. This minimal processing is done without the aid of sophisticated equipment such as vacuum evaporators and does not require any additives or enzymes. Coconut sugar has a lower glycemic index than refined cane sugar and is naturally gluten free. Aunt Patty’s Organic Coconut Sugar can be substituted cup for cup in any recipe that calls for cane sugar.

Aunt Patty’s Organic Honey Crystals are made from organic honey and organic evaporated sugar cane. This free-flowing natural sweetener is instantly soluble and has a low moisture content. This product is ideal to use in recipes where a granulated sweetener is required and a honey flavor is desired. Aunt Patty’s Organic Honey Crystals can be substituted cup for cup in any recipe that calls for cane sugar.

Aunt Patty’s Organic Coconut Sugar and Organic Honey Crystals are currently available both direct from GloryBee Foods and at natural food retailers throughout the Western United States , and through UNFI and Nature’s Best distributors.

Friday, March 29, 2013

Herbal Medicine on a Budget

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